2008年10月27日星期一

15 spring accessories trends to get your hands on now.

If, like us, you've been watching runways lately as much as the stock market, then you know that the spring/summer shows were just as much about accessories as they were about ready-to-wear. And despite the recent economic rumblings (more like armegeddon, actually), designers turned up the volume on runway add-ons, taking sparkle, fringe, color, and embellishment all to new heights. Recession? Not on these runways. But the thing is, plunking your money down on a great bag or pair of platform sandals is probably one of the better investments you could make—not only will any of these artful bags, ankle booties, or chunky bangles bring a little extra joy to your day, they might even make you feel a tad richer than you really are. It's all about perspective, right?

1. Round Sunglasses—Very Great Gatsby or maybe The Cotton Club...simple, quirky, and completely chic.


From left: Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler, Vera Wang

2. Towering Platforms—Here's to never being tall enough…if you ever wanted to feel like a super-hero, spring will be the time. From left: Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors

From left: Prada, Gucci



3. Busy Bags—The days of minimal bags are OVER. We're loving these excessively tricked out totes. From left: Oscar de la Renta, Dolce & Gabbana

From left: Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan



4. Giant Gems—Prehistoric-sized rocks were the focal point of spring/summer's big, big neck candy.


From left: Marni, Gucci, Marni

From left: Marc Jacobs, Shipley & Halmos, Marni]


5. Chain Belts—Another simple swipe of embellishment that makes even a simple outfit seem richer.


From left: Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Pollini

6. Cantilevered Heels—Angular lifts have been all the rage lately, regardless of the comfort level.

From left: Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs

7. Giant Tassles—One of our favorite accessory trends, giant tassles had a sort of baroque, tom-boyish feel.

From left: Gucci, Matthew Williamson, Matthew Williamson

From left: Marc Jacobs, Karen Walker, Marc Jacobs

8. Big Bangles Galore—Another season, and even more bigger, wider, chunkier bangles to go around.

From left: Marc Jacobs, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Zac Posen

9. Lacing—Elizabethan and a touch sexy, the season's lacing on the highest shoes is equally high on our list.

From left: Vena Cava for Via Spiga, Doo.Ri

From left: Christian Dior, 3.1 Phillip Lim

10. Minaudiere Purses—Jewelry-box-style cases with hard lines and artful details offered plenty of old-school bling at many a designer's show.

From left: Proenza Schouler, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli

From left: Versace, Fendi, Matthew Williamson

11. Fringed Shoes—A more modest form of accenting, the season's fringe feels urban instead of earthy.

From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim

12. Geometric Necklaces—A surprisingly clean switch from so many other turns of fanciful excess, these geometric-cut necklaces were practically minimal in comparison, revealing a mod '60s-infused spin.

From left: Roberto Cavalli, Missoni

13. Thick Ankle Straps—Short skirts are begging to be worn with these super sexy, bondage-style sandals.

From left: Jil Sander, Pollini, Thakoon

14. More is More Necklaces—Whether it's layered coral or tangles of rope and stone, designers just want to keep piling it on.

From left: Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta

15. Obi Belts—Designers still can't get enough of showing off the waist, and while loads brought extra-extra-wide '80s-style belts onboard, we were more into the slightly couture Obi-esque wraps.

From left: Chris Benz, Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs

By Piera Gelardi & Christene Barberich

www.refinery29.com

2008年10月17日星期五

1920——1929 AGE OF "MAX FACTOR"

新型的螺旋形口红是这个时代的标志,
用现在的话
它简直是一种又酷又爽的流行,
但在公开场合涂抹口红
还是相当骇俗的。
这个时期的化妆时尚的标志是:
用口红和粉饼。

蜜丝佛陀几乎在一夜之间,Clara Bow 在《魅力女郎》中的“IT GIRL”造型成了所有女孩子的梦想。虽然当时的人们还不敢公开谈“性”,但“IT”GIRL俨然已成为性诱惑的象征。20年代的好莱坞女明星颇具异国风情,她们的举止放浪形骸,如在指甲上涂各种不同颜色的指甲油并使之成为一股热潮。

战前,领导时尚潮流的是上流社会的贵妇,而如今这一角色被演艺圈的明星所代替。在明星带动下,女人们开始浓妆艳抹起来。说到这里,我们就不能不提蜜丝佛陀这个伟大的名字!作为20年代化妆也的巨头之一,他的名字和好莱坞密不可分,因为他所研制的化妆品特别适用于银幕上而不是舞台上。他根据Rudolph Valentino的肤色为他提供了适合他用的化妆油彩,这种油彩比大部分男星用的颜色都要深,可这使Valentino的脸色看起来更加柔和,自然。


蜜丝佛陀在好莱坞声名大噪,几乎征服了所有20年代的绝代佳人,如格罗莉亚.斯旺森,宝拉.格纳丽,嘉宝及其他的大牌明星。他率先推出了“和谐颜色”的化妆品系列,向女性介绍各种颜色的化妆品如何组合,这也意味着他可以同时向女性出售他的粉饼,口红和胭脂。蜜丝佛陀的名字与电影一直形影不离,产品的宣传海报与广告也多与当红明星拉上关系。1928年,在推广他的“SOCIETY彩妆”海报上,便印上了在他的帮助下,被好莱坞打造成传世银幕形象的明星,从而获得巨大的成功。这种利用明星效应向公众推销产品的广告宣传方式也从此保留下来。

产业化和日光浴化妆品越来越便宜,不再是可望而不可即的。成产商也不断地寻找着她们的新市场,可以向人们推出他们时尚,优质的产品。化妆品的广告宣传增多了,人们日益将重点放在新产品的包装上。

Elizabeth Arden,和其他的商家一样,选择了伦敦的庞德街作为她的沙龙所在地,并在它的后面建了一家工厂。到1925年,这家公司每年的收入已达2000万英镑,这反映了那个时代的消费能力。蜜丝佛陀也成功地冲出好莱坞,“颜色和谐”化妆品系列开始在美国全国出售,到了30年代,甚至被推广到全世界。

20年代,法国的社会分为相对较为宽裕,爵士歌手们日益收到法国人们的欢迎,Josephine Baker 的风格也得到人们的追捧。但是虽然法国一些媒体最早开设了面向黑人妇女的美容专栏,但黑人化妆还是会受到公众的非议。《皇后》杂志曝光了Josephine Baker 的头发之所以总闪耀着光泽,是因为她将蛋清涂在头发上,她还用白色的铅笔描唇,这一切成为公开的秘密。


睫毛刷与眼线笔是战后的发明,在战前,青年人热衷实用眼影粉,甚至将它称为“女人的秘密”之一。1927年让.帕托发明了一种名为“迦勒底”的防晒油。他还设计了泳装,和COCO CHANNEL一道将日光浴推广称为一种文化。这之后,卡尼尔的第一支防晒霜AMBRE SOLARE面世,大获成功,并且称为这类产品的主要品牌。

Ava Gardner(艾娃·嘉德勒)


Billie Dove(比丽·朵芙)


Billie Dove(比丽·朵芙)

Carole Lombard(卡罗尔·伦巴德)


D. Costello(D. 科斯特罗)

Myrna Loy(莫纳·罗伊)

Loretta Young(罗若塔·杨)


Lana Turner(拉纳·特勒)

L. Brooks(L. 布鲁克斯)


Joan Bennett(让·班蕾特)

菁吉尔·罗杰斯(Ginger Rogers)

clara bow:

2008年10月10日星期五

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